Torre dei Sabbioni

Difficulty: AD inf., max IV- UIAA
Climbing length: 170 mt., 250 mt. dev.
Exposure: South and East Sides
First ascent: Luigi Cesaletti alone 24-8-1877
Starting point: road San Vito di Cadore – Rifugio San Marco

Torre dei Sabbioni Cesaletti Original Route – the Normal one of the tower – is a classic and not usual climb, very important because of being an absolute milestone in mountaineering’s history of the Dolomites and all Alps. This climb is really a thrilling trip alla around Torre dei Sabbioni; notwithstanding the low difficulties, dolomia’s quality is extraordinarily good and climb is very pleasant. Climbing way is mainly inner, along chimneys, connected by easy and sometimes exposed ledges.

From San Marco Hut follow the good path (n. 226) rising towards Forcella Grande mt. 2255, a wide saddle between Cima Bel Prà on the right-hand side and Cima Tajola on the left, and reaching the saddle. Torre dei Sabbioni is appearing if you’re looking towards North. From Forcella Grande leave the main path on your left-hand side and follow an high and level little trail through the scree-slopes, surrounding all the sides of Torre dei Sabbioni and making almost a 360° round, skirting at first West Face, then North and East ones and finally rising steeply to reach a great hanging terrace at Forcella Sabbioni, just below the South side of the tower, near a rocky bridge towards Cima Bel Prà. Here the route starts.


L1 – Climb a short step along a little shallow chimney, reaching the Lower ledge. Follow the ledge 20 meters towards left (facing in), reaching an obvious chimney with a jammed block in its upper part. Belay under the chimney. II, I.
L2 – Up along the chimney leading to the jammed block; climb it on the left side (crux, pegs) and belay soon afterwards. III and IV-, 25 mt.
L3 – Climb some easy rocks, reaching a ledge with some cairns (Middle ledge, peg). Follow the ledge 40 meters towards left (facing in). Belay along the ledge (peg and cairn), under another yellow chimney with another jammed block.
L4 – Climb the chimney and belay on a little terrace past the chimney at the beginning of Upper ledge (pegs). II, III, 30 mt.
L5 – Towards right (facing in) follow the ledge, at times covered by a low vault, with some exposed moves (pegs). II, III, 40 mt.
L6 – Follow again the Upper ledge 60 mt. towards right, reaching a belay under a shallow chimney. II
L7 – Climb the chimney, then head towards right reaching a block. Belay. II, III, 30 mt.
L8 – Easy rocks are leading over the wide and flat summit (little Mary’s statue and Summit Book). The view all around the neigbouring Eastern Dolomites Groups and far off Western Dolomites is truly unbeatable!!! It’s the best I’d never seen.

Descent: from the top walk towards SE along the wide flat summit reaching an obvious cairn situated near the first equipped belay. Two abseils (10 mt + 50 mt.) lead to the Upper Ledge. Another abseil reachs the Middle Ledge. From here two abseils lead to the Lower Ledge. Follow the ledge towards left – facing out – reaching the last step. Climb the last easy rocks leading to the basal terrace.

Source: summitpost.org